The Season of Thieves

The violation happened with absolute panache; one moment my wallet lay safely zippered in the innermost pocket of my pack which sat safely right next to me on a leather covered bench in the store; the next moment it was gone. The problem lay in me not knowing exactly which moment. Had I been in possession of that vital piece of information I would still be in possession of my wallet and its contents -– a few hundred Euros and maybe 20 Australian dollars, two credit cards, my bank debit card, a Travelex Cash Passport plus my driver’s license, Medicare card, a few important business cards and a copy of my passport. I learned the hard way (in Spain) long ago to always and without exception leave the original securely ‘at home’.

On Tuesday I was enjoying some time alone in the centre of Palma slowly wandering the streets running off Plaza Major with some serious window shopping and a little actual shopping in mind. The main influx of tourists had departed the week before and the city was pleasantly uncrowded. I was on my way to pick up a pair of sandals that I'd earlier ordered and taking the opportunity to revisit old haunts en route. It is reaffirming to be remembered and warmly greeted by shop owners after a three year absence; the woman who, for five years, sold me brightly coloured fans to give to my tour groups in India gave me a huge hug, summonsed her husband out to meet me and offered the usual discount when I bought several for the group next month; the German woman in the arty clothing store tried once again to sell me clothing that would not quite fit and I managed to escape without trying anything on. I then bought some real lavender soap and a few small items for friends at home before I ran short on cash. At the nearest ATM I withdrew 200 Euros on my Travelex Cash Passport and made my way to the shoe store.

‘Excuse please” said a voice in my ear ‘how much these shoes are?’ The fresh faced young woman who leaned across me held a turquoise and blue walking shoe out for my inspection – it was very chic, very European. The price tag said 45 Euros, which I pointed out to her. She sort of nudged me along on the bench and sat beside me. I asked her where she was from and I believe she said ‘Grecia’ in a thick accent! She then pulled a black and red version of the same shoe off the rack alongside us. ‘Which should I buy’ she said leaning even closer. I was aware of her friend standing behind us and peering with interest at the shoes. ‘The turquoise’ I replied ‘they will match the sea surrounding your country.’ How stupidly romantic can one be in a rush of female camaraderie? In the folly that is hindsight my radar should have been on high alert when she asked the salesgirl, not for her size, but instead what sizes they had in store. Conveniently, of course, they did not have hers and I returned my attention to my own feet and the new sandals. When I looked up the two women had disappeared from the store and when I went to pay so had my wallet. In utter disbelief, rage and anguish and still wearing the new and unpaid for sandals I sprinted to the shop where I had made my last purchase – just in case.

In my brief absence the shop girls had called in the local police who patrol the streets at this time of year – the high season of thieves – those quick handed, well practiced pickpockets and bag snatchers of tourist-infested Spain. Two black-clad, gun-toting young officers promised to go looking immediately; one of the girls escorted me to a taxi in which I fled to the Aquarium and to Mike who was reuniting with his old work buddies. By the time I had made contact with Travelex UK less than 30 minutes later my account had been stripped down to a mere one hundred dollars.  The company had suspended my card due to ‘unusual activity’ but not before $1200 had been removed. The pair had been watching me since my own transaction, had taken ownership of my pin number which, according to the police, is now easily accomplished with digital devices, and then stalked me all the way to the kill.

It is 2 am here in Genova as I write this. A lightning storm is dancing over the bay. I have been to the Oficina de Denuncias at midnight and have just spoken to Travelex via Skype. I now have the times and addresses of the ATMs and shops where the fraudulent transactions took place with and without success. Surveillance cameras may (por favor) help fill some gaps. I have a feeling that this event is far from over and that my love of investigation may yield, if not a positive outcome, then material for some future undertaking. Tomorrow we go face spotting with the local police and in the meantime if you see an attractive young woman of 25 or so, dressed in a white tee shirt, red shorts and red and white walking shoes, her hair drawn into a topknot, her dark eyes peering from behind elegant diamante studded glasses and bearing a purple leather wallet then feel free to make a citizen’s arrest. Her accomplice will be busily studying a local map just like any other tourist! If you are traveling then watch your back, front and sides and your wallet and watch this space for the next instalment. It gets better!